The Ender 3 is a very cheap but high quality and reliable 3D printer. No wonder it is currently the most popular 3D printer out there. Actually we also have several Ender 3 models in our shop and they are running almost nonstop. However we had a lot of problem at first with our print quality and reliability. So here are 6 things you can easliy print on your existing 3D printer for an Ender 3 upgrade.
Board fan guard
The first 3D print is probably more a quality of life improvement rather than a necessary upgrade. This fan guard will protect the otherwise open fan on the bottom box of your 3D printer. Small pieces of filament or dirt could easily fall into the open fan, and that is where this upgrade will come in handy. Furthermore the fan opening is placed directly underneath the heated bed making the cooling capabilities of this fan something to worry about. Whats even worse is, the fan will cool down the heated bed at the bottom left corner. This can lead to bad plate adhesion and potentially failing or warping prints. So this 3D printer upgrade is a no-brainer.
Curcuit Board Cover
If you ever used the screen and knob of the Ender 3 you will know what this is about. While your thumb is pressing down on the button, your other fingers will most likely habe touched the circuit board n the back of the main screen. The cuircuit board cover will do just that, cover the curcuit board. So your hands are free from electrocution and the curcit board of your 3D printer is safe from any dirt or dust. This Ender 3 upgrade will print in one piece and require just a couple of screws to tighten it onto your Ender 3. The designer recommends the following screws: 2x M3x10 / 2x M3x16
3D printed Filament Guide
Near the PLA Filament spool
This is where we get into actually functional upgardes for your Ender 3. The filament guide has a loop with an optional hole at the end of its arm. Here you insert the filament from the spool and have the arm guide it around the machine. The right adapter clips right into the frame of the Ender 3, and it is really easy to install. The filament guide will create a more rounded travel for the filament. This can help with extrusion and retraction issues when the filament goes into the extruder at a quite steep angle. With the stock Ender 3 the filament goes straight down from the spool into the extruder and this can lead to problems, especially when it grinds at the edges of the extruder. This guide also makes sure, the filament does not get tangled in the z-axis rod or any other surrounding objects. This guide is almost an essential upgrade to any Ender 3 printer.
Another Filament Guide
Next to the extruder motor
Completing the Filament guides, this smaller guide is as essential as the previous one. This one prints as a single piece and can be clipped onto the extruder of the ender 3. It will then guide the filament to the extruder. Sometimes you can notice ground PLA at the extruder entry hole. That is because the PLA grinds against that entry when the extruder pulls on it. This can lead to problems with under extrusion or even clogged tubes. We install these two filament guides in any Ender 3 3D printer.
Petsfang Duct for CR10
This is a multipart print and will be mounted to your hotend fans. The exact instructions can be found in the thingyverse thread. But basically this replaces the stock fan housing of the CR10 / Ender 3. The cooling will be applied more directly and precisely to the nozzle and the freshly 3D printed PLA. You might ask yourself, why you would need extra cooling, as your prints turn our fine. But consider this: When we are printing overhangs, the melted plastic will fall down, creating strings and ruining the print. With better cooling we can get away with steeper overhangs without supports, because the PLA solidifies very quickly. This is especially important when printing miniatures or 3D printable tabletop terrain. With this printable object there are several variations to it. We need the one with “CR10” in the name for our Ender 3s
Extruder Tension fix clip
The Ender 3 has a really nasty problem with its extrusion. There are several places problems with extrusion can occur, and this little clip will help you tremendously. Just make sure you print this before you need it! So basically this clip acts as a sort of spacer for the spring at the extruder of the CR10. In some cases the spring, that clamps the filament into the gead inside the extruder, is not tight enough. You can observe this problem during a print. Is the filament always being pulled as the extruder moves? How does the filament retract when the extruder moves? Is there under extrusion? When you push the clamp closed, does it print better? If this sound familiar. You will probably be better off printing this clamp sooner rather than later.
I hope these 3D printable ugrades for your 3D printer were helpful to you. We consider any of these upgrades a must. Especially the tension fix clamp will help you out of a pickle if you just have it ready. When you need it, but dont have it, you will be in trouble.
By the way our 3D printed terrain is exclusively printed on more or less stock Ender 3 printers. The only modifications we made are listed in this article. So if you want to 3D print beatiful looking tabletop wargaming terrain, you are all set with these upgrades.
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